Ask Würth

Table of Contents
» ASSY Screws
» Drill Bits
» Hole Saws
» Jig Saw Blades
» Sprays, Greases, Hand Cleaners, and Safety Items
» Tools, Staples and Nails, and Miscellaneous Items
» Contact a Würth specialist

ASSY Screws:

What are Assy Screws?

Regular ASSY use?

Ecofast use?

ASSY-Plus use?

Jamo use?

How do I get the Jamo screw out?

Solution to using the Jamo; unsure where stud is?

Are plastic cover caps available?

Are longer drives available?

What if I lose the drive on a job site?

Are there hand screw drivers available with the AW-Drive?

What quantities are ASSY screws available in?

Are ASSY screws available in larger box quantities?

What are the advantages of the AW-Drive?

Q. What are Assy Screws?
A. Assy Screws offer a high-tech asymmetrical/symmetrical double thread design. The patented AW-drive design combines all the advantages of Phillips, Torx, and Pozi drive bits. The AW-drive is similar to a Torx, but it is tapered, which gives you more contact points inside the head of the screw - enabling accurate screw placement and the “No Come-Out” design prevents screw head damage. The screws also go through an additional annealing process which makes them more malleable. The reason most screws break is because they are just case hardened, which makes them hard but brittle. Because of the additional annealing our screws go through, they can be bent at a radical angle, straightened, and still be screwed in. Assy screws install twice as fast and have 40% stronger holding power than traditional screws.

Q. In what application would the Regular ASSY be used?
A. The regular Assy is particularly useful for installation of hinge cup, base plate, standard hinges, and drawer slide installation. Typically in these applications, most assemblers will use a Phillips head, Pozi, or square drive screw. The problem with using these head designs in these applications is that—typically you are in a tight space with the cordless screw driver at 90 degrees to the working area. Once the assembler gets to the point where they are going to insert the screw - especially with Phillips head screws - the screw either falls off the drive or they strip it out. With the AW-drive, the “Come-Out” effect is vertually eliminated.

Q. In what application would the Ecofast be used?
A. The Ecofast has all the feature/benefits of the Regular ASSY – and it has countersinking nibs under the head – which eliminates the need for additional tooling and increases assembly time. Use the Ecofast for cabinet hanging, melamine box assembly, and countersinking in laminates, veneers, and wood materials that don’t need to be pre-drilled.

Q. In what application would the Assy-Plus be used?
A. The most important feature of the Assy-Plus is that it has the capability to pre-drill and countersink. One of the applications that I have found this screw to be particularly useful is for installations where two boxes are being connected, especially when the cabinets are being connected through solid wood face frames. Typically, in this application, most installers will use a full thread screw and pre-drill and countersink the one side. The problem with using a full thread screw is that once the screw goes from one piece to the next, the material will tend to separate and not draw together. The best method is to use the Assy-Plus because it has the drill tip and countersink built into the screw plus a partial thread. The drill tip will eliminate having to pre-drill - the countersinking head will eliminate having to countersink - and the partial thread will draw the two pieces of material together without separating. This is a tremendous time saver.

Q. In what application would the Jamo be used?
A. The Jamo Screw is an installation screw that has a built-in shimming system. The body is made up of two parts. The lower shank is a coarse thread that screws rapidly into wood. The upper shank has rings, not threads, which hold the screw into the wood member being installed. This is what makes it adjustable: the upper shank stays in the installed piece while the lower shank can be moved in or out. The Jamo is an excellent vehilce in place of using shims!

Q. What if I need to get the Jamo screw out – is it possible?
A. Yes. If you need to remove the screw completely - you will need to screw in another screw right next to it. This will give the downward pressure required to get the screw completely out.

Q. Is there a solution to using the Jamo, if I am not sure where a stud is?
A. Yes, the solution to that is - when installing upper cabinets for a kitchen, set the cabinets using standard screws first into a stud. After the cabinet is hung - the installer can see where they may need to use shims. The installer then takes the standard screw out where they would need to shim and replaces it with the Jamo screw. This way they know, for a fact, that they will hit a stud when they insert the Jamo screw. Do not use this screw solely to hang a cabinet - use the Jamo only where you need some adjustment.

Q. Are plastic cover caps available for the Assy Screws?
A. Yes. They are available in white, light ivory, light brown, and black. The caps have the same tapered design to fit the AW-drive. Therfore, they stay in the head a lot better than other plastic cover caps in the industry.

Q. Are longer drives available for the Assy Screws?
A. Yes. First of all, all the screws come with a 1” drive included in every box. If you require a longer drive, they are available in 2”, 4” and 6”.

Q. What happens if I lose the drive on a job site. Can I get a bit at a local hardware store?
A. If you lose a bit or a customer needs to make adjustments to a cabinet, a standard Torx will work in the ASSY Screws. The Torx bit will be a little wobbly, but it will get you by until you get a replacement drive bit from your distributor.

Q. Are there hand screw drivers available with the AW-Drive?
A. Yes, there are hand screw drivers for making fine adjustments.

Q. What quantities are the Assy Screws available in?
A. It depends on the length of the screw. The longer the screw, the less that are in the box. For example, a 5/8” screw will have 1,000 screws in the box and a 3-1/8” screw will have 200 screws in the box. Please refer to the catalog for the quantity of the item you require.

Q. Are the Assy Screws available in larger box quantities?
A. No. The boxes are only available in small boxes. The boxes themselves are unique. The box opens so it can be used at a work station and closed to be put back on a shelf. The box has two labels on the box. One label stays on the box - the smaller label can be removed and placed on bins in the shop or a rack for easy identification when looking for the correct screw or when re-ordering. Some shops will use the smaller box as a bidding/billing tool. For example … an assembler could remove the box from the shelf, use the box to assemble the project, and then bill that box to the job. It is an effective way to keep track of the total cost of making your final project.

One downside to purchasing screws in 50lb boxes is that you never know how many screws you have at any given moment. If you have a big job coming up, you could possibly run out of screws. If you have 20 boxes of the Assy screws on the shelf, at 500 a box, you know how many screws you have. Therefore, you can plan for your jobs more effectively!

Q. What are the advantages of the AW-Drive?
A. Being that the drive is similar to a Torx, but it is tapered, the AW-drive Assy Screw will self-center, has better torque transfer, “No Come-Out Effect”, will not wobble, and has longer bit life.

Sprays, Greases, Hand Cleaners and Safety Items:

Why is your belt cleaner better?

What is PTFE Dry Lube and what is it used for?

Why didn't it work when I applied PTFE Dry Lube?

Why should I use PTFE Dry Lube instead of car wax?

What is the Liquid Pitch and Resin Remover and what is it used for?

Can the Pitch and Resin Remover be diluted?

What is your recommendation for the use of the Pitch and Resin Remover on paper back belts?

Is Rost-Off similar to WD-40?

What is HHS-2000 used for?

Why is it important not to have silicone in spray products?

What is Super Spray-All used for?

Does Super Spray-All take off Glue?

Is there any thing that you would you not use Super Spray-All on?

Are M.S.D.S. sheets available for all the spray products?

Why would you use Nitrile Gloves instead of Latex?

Why is the PX-3 in such a small bottle?

What is unique about the EZ-Wipes?

Q. Why is your abrasive belt cleaner better than others in the industry?
A. Many of the abrasive belt sanding belt cleaners in the industry are made of crape. Our abrasive belt cleaner, Wurth Abrasive Belt Cleaner, is made of smoked-rubber. The crape belt cleaners tend to break down very quickly and get dusty. According to industry tests, ours wore down at half the rate of its competitors. It will also do a better job at getting embedded residue out of abrasive surfaces.

Q. What is PTFE Dry Lube and what is it used for?
A. PTFE Dry Lube is a transparent Silicon Free non-contaminating, antifriction coating for metal, rubber, plastic, etc… It is excellent for using on table saw tops or any vertical/horizontal surface where you have friction. It is excellent to use for dry sliding parts where oils and grease could cause contamination.

Q. I had a problem when using the PTFE Dry Lube.
When I applied it, it did not work.
A. The reason that some customers complained that the PTFE Dry Lube did not work is because they did not let it set-up. This is not a spray and go product. You must let it dry for at least 30 minutes. The product will dry to the touch in 15 minutes and hardens in 30 minutes. After it has dried, it will form a 1/10” of a millimeter film of Teflon on the surface that is treated. I always recommend that if you are going to treat a table top, do it at the end of the day. Blow off the table top, apply a coat of the PTFE Dry Lube, and then let it set over night. This will assure that the product has fully cured.

Q. Why should I use PTFE Dry Lube instead of car wax?
A. Car wax will work, but it tends to build up on your table top. It can eventually transfer over to your materials being cut and contaminate it. The PTFE Dry Lube will dry hard and clear, and it will last much longer than car wax.

Q. What is the Liquid Pitch and Resin Remover and what is it used for?
A. The Liquid Pitch and Resin Remover has been developed for woodworkers who need an easy, inexpensive way to clean their abrasive belts and cutting tools. There are several applications for this. Spray it on a sanding belt, it will emulsify the pitch, get flaky, then just blow it off with an air hose. You can also use it to remove pitch from your saw blades, router bits, and files. It works exceptionally well on hard to clean files. Spray the Liquid Pitch and Resin Remover on a file. You will see the pitch ball up and squeeze out of the grooves. You can then just blow it off with your air hose.

Q. Can the Pitch and Resin Remover be diluted?
A. Yes. You can dilute the Pitch and Resin Remover 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part of the solution. In fact, many shops will keep containers around the shop, to immerse tools that are not being used. This will keep the tools clean and pitch free between uses.

Q. What is your recommendation for the use of the Pitch and Resin Remover on paper back belts?
A. The Liquid Pitch and Resin Remover works great on paper back belts, but be advised, that you cannot immerse a paper back belt – it will ruin the belt. Use the 32oz spray bottle to apply the product and then use an air hose to remove the emulsified pitch. If you have a cloth back belt, you can immerse the belt for a few seconds, hose it off with water, and then let it dry. Any remaining pitch can be blown off with an air hose.

Q. Is Rost-Off similar to WD-40?
A. Rost-Off is more similar to 3 and 1 oil. It is Silicon Free and Acid Free. It is designed to penetrate and loosen rusted parts. Use it for rusted screws, bolts, nuts and even your pipe clamps. Rost-Off even displaces water to allow use around electrical components. It protects permanently against rust and corrosion. It also doubles as a light weight lubricating oil.

Q. What is HHS-2000 used for?
A. HHS-2000 is a Silicone Free spray grease. It has a unique feature. It is a long lasting lubricant that starts out as a penetrant and sets-up into a white lithium grease. If you need to get grease to a part and you don’t want to take your machine apart, especially if you have a spline, gear, or a screw, use the HHS-2000. The HHS-2000 will creep up the thread - adhere to the metal as it flashes off, and then set-up into white lithium grease. To see how this works – if you have a forklift, first degrease the chain with either the Super Spray-All or the Super Spray Degreaser, wipe it down using the EZ-wipes, and then apply the HHS-2000. You will see it creep into the chain – after a minute, touch the chain and you will see that it has set-up into grease. The Super Spray-All, EZ-Wipes, and the HHS-2000 are a great combination of items to maintain your equipment.

Q. Why is it important not to have silicone in spray products?
A. If you are staining, and you spray silicone anywhere near where you are staining, it will create “fish eyes” (little clear bumps). Silicone will get air born and attach to the material you are trying to stain. The only way to remove this is to sand the “fish eyes” off. This creates a lot of unnecessary work when staining. TIP: It is very important that if you are going to be staining in your shop, to make sure any product you are using does not contain silicone.

Q. What is Super Spray-All used for?
A. Super Spray-All is an excellent degreaser and all around general purpose cleaner. You can use it to remove pencil or Sharpie Marker from laminate or Formica surfaces. Many shops will use lacquer thinner to remove pencil and Sharpie Marker. First of all - the problem with using lacquer thinner is that it tends to haze up the material. Secondly, it is not environmentally friendly, and it is not good for you to inhale. Lastly, if you are at an insatllation, and you have to clean up at the end of the day using lacquer thinner, the customer does not like the smell. Super Spray-All is VOC (volatile organic compounds) compliant in all 50 states. Super Spray-All works exceptionally well, and it has a pleasant smell!

Q. Does Super Spray-All take off Glue?
A. Super Spray-All is a cleaner, not a solvent. If the glue is water based, it will remover overspray on an edge bander. In most cases, it will not remove glue. Test it and see what it will or will not take off.

Q. Is there any thing that you would you not use Super Spray-All on?
A. Do Not let Super Spray-All dry on Glass. If the Super Spray-All dries on glass, the glass will etch.

Q. Are M.S.D.S. sheets available for all the spray products?
A. Yes, these can either be requested through any of your sales representatives, or you can call the Würth M.S.D.S. fax vault at 1-888-987-8432. Enter the item number you require an M.S.D.S. sheet for and the system will automatically fax you back the M.S.D.S. sheet.

Q. Why would you use Nitrile Gloves instead of Latex?
A. People are either allergic to Latex or the powder that goes into some Nitrile Gloves. The Würth Nitrile Gloves are latex free and powder free so these issues are resolved. The reason most people use Nitrile Gloves is that they are much stronger than latex. The Würth Nitrile Gloves are much stronger than most in the industry. They have a progressive mil thickness - they start at 4mil at the wrist - at the fingertip they are 7mil. The fingertips are nearly twice the thickness of the wrist because the fingertips are the parts that typically will turn black and break off when you are staining or using solvents. Our Nitrile Gloves even hold up to lacquer thinner! If cost is an issue and you are not allergic to latex, you can use latex gloves. However, I recommend you spend a little more money for the Nitrile Gloves and really protect your hands and get much longer life from your gloves!

Q. Why is the PX-3 in such a small bottle?
A. The PX-3 is a concentrated formula. It is excellent for removing varnish, ink, paint and other hard to remove material from your hands. Try this – take a Sharpie Marker and write on your hand. Take a very small amount of the PX-3 and rub it into the stain dry. Work the stain - then add water. It will safely remove the stain without harmful chemicals, phosphates, alkalines, or acids. Many will use paint thinner to get hard to get stain off hands. PX-3 is much safer and has a much better smell! It has low PH levels and is safe for sensitive skin.

Q. What is unique about the EZ-Wipes?
A. EZ-Wipes are a convenient, portable, one-step/time-saving waterless hand cleaner. In addition they may be used to clean tools and machinery. The wipe is a large 10” x 12” pre-moistened wipe that contains citrus degreaser and lanolin. These wipes will stay moist for a long time. Don’t just use them and throw them away. If they do totally dry out, they are still a sturdy shop towel. If they are in useable condition, just add water to them and they will get soapy again. Use them over and over until they are no longer usable. TIP: If you accidentally leave the container open and the whole can dries out – just put a few ice cubes (or a small anoumt of water) in the can, shake it up. – and it will reactive the entire can.

Jig Saw Blades:

Is there an easy way to determine what Jig Saw Blade is best for my application?

Do you have a blade that cuts opposite direction for cutting laminate that is similar to the Bosch T101BR?

Do you offer the Jig Saw blades in bulk packaging?

Q. Is there an easy way to determine what Jig Saw Blade is best for my application?
A. Our jig saw blade packaging is color coded – Beige = Wood, Blue = Metal, Gray = Construction/Universal, and Green = Stainless steel. If you are currently using any other blades, you can contact your local office or sales representative and provide them with them item number you are using. Your blade will be easily cross referenced over to a Würth item number.

Q. Do you have a blade that cuts opposite direction for cutting laminate that is similar to the Bosch T101BR?
A. Yes. The Würth item number is 608-116-111.

Q. Do you offer the Jig Saw blades in bulk packaging?
A. There are a few, but most of the blades are in a 5 piece card.

Drill Bits:

What makes your Drill Bits better than others in the industry?

How are the Drills sold?

What materials can I use the Drills in?

Can the drills be sharpened?

What diameter do the Drills not have the three flats on the shank?

Q. What makes your Drill Bits better than others in the industry?
A. There are a few features about our drill bits that make them unique. First of all, the drills have three flats on the shank so they lock into the chuck very positively. If a drill does not have this feature and you drill into something difficult, it will spin in the chuck – which could create damage. Another feature is that there are two coatings on the drills, black oxide and bronze oxide. The bronze oxide layer helps dissipate heat. Anytime you introduce heat to steel it weakens it, causing the drill to break. The bronze oxide layer greatly reduces heat. Our drills have a 165 degree split tip, which makes them self center – even in steel without using a center punch. The webbing of the drill is thicker on the cutting edge and thicker in the center which makes the drill bit more break resistant.

Q. How are the Drills sold?
A. You can purchase the drills in index sets (13, 21 and 29 pieces) or you can purchase the drill sizes individually.

Q. What materials can I use the Drills in?
A. The drills will work in steel, aluminum, or wood materials.

Q. Can the drills be sharpened?
A. Yes. Any reputable sharpening shop can sharpen drills. However, be aware that anytime you sharpen a drill - it loses a little on the diameter. So if you need to make exact diameter holes, it is better to purchase a new one when the old one wares out.

Q. What diameter do the Drills not have the three flats on the shank?
A. Drills from 11/64” and smaller do not offer flats on the shank. The reason is that if you added the flats to a drill this small in diameter, it would weaken the steel and make it tend to break easier.

Hole Saws:

What makes your Hole Saws better than others in the industry?

I can’t make a hole in thick material with the ejector spring in place – any suggestions?

Is there an entire Hole Saw Kit available?

Q. What makes your Hole Saws better than others in the industry?
A. Our Hole Saws are constructed with bimetal steel which makes them stronger and hold a cutter edge longer. Another unique feature is our mandrill. Most mandrills have to be unscrewed to make the receiving pins retract from the holes on the underside of the hole saws. Our mandrill is a quick release - just pull it back. Another feature is that we developed a compression spring that goes over the pilot drill. This will eject the plug in the hole saw instead of trying to dig it out with a screw driver. This will save alot of time and frustration!

Q. I can’t make a hole in thick material with the ejector spring in place – any suggestions?
A. Try this – Start boring the hole until the pilot drill goes through the other side. If you can, flip the piece over and bore form the other side. This way you will be able to utilize the ejector spring, as well as achieving a chip free cut on both sides of the material.

Q. Is there an entire Hole Saw Kit available?
A. You can either purchase the individual pieces or an entire kit. The kit contains – 12” hole saws ranging in size from ¾” up to 3” in ¼” increments, two mandrills - one for ¾”- 1-1/8” hole saws and one for 1-1/4” – 6” hole saws, a 12” extension, and the ejector spring.

Tools, Staples and Nails, and Miscellaneous Items:

I buy a cheap caulk gun from a local hardware store. What makes yours worth the extra cost?

What are all the applications for the Aluminum Edge Clamp?

What makes your One-Handed Bar Clamp better than the rest?

Any suggestions for dealing with problems with air pressure for my pneumatic tools?

What kind of guidelines do you recommend for temperature and water condensation when using pneumatic shop tools?

How does water get into the pneumatic tools and how can I get rid of it?

How do I avoid air supply problems for pneumatic tools?

How can I diagnose if I have an air pressure problem with my pneumatic tools?

What are the do’s and don’ts of lubrication?

Q. I buy a cheap caulk gun from a local hardware store.
What makes yours worth the extra cost?
A. There are a few feature/benefits that our caulk guns have that are unique to the industry. First of all, the triggers on most caulk guns are at the back - ours is in the center which makes them more balanced so your wrist won’t get as tired as with a standard caulk gun. It also has a “no-drip” feature. With most caulk guns, when you release the trigger – the caulk continues to come out. With ours, simply move the trigger forward and it will release the pressure - which stops the flow of the caulk. Last … with a half twist, you can remove the cartridge for cleaning or repairs. This makes it re-usable - which saves you money.

Q. I like the concept of the Aluminum Edge Clamp, but is it expensive?
Can you recommend other applications to justify the extra cost?
A. The Aluminum Edge Clamp has a few applications. The main application is what it is designed for – one handed operation clamp for holding decorative edges in place while glue dries or for holding the piece in place for nailing. Another application that the Aluminum Edge Clamp is useful for would be as an installation tool. If you are by yourself, you can use the clamp to flush two cabinets together. Another application the Aluminum Edge Clamp can be used for would be for installation of face frames. In most cases, when face frames are attached to the box – you need to lay the box on its back. With the Aluminum Edge Clamp, you can keep your boxes vertical while you attach the face frame.

Q. I have used plastic clamps from other suppliers in the past, but have not been satisfied with their performance. What makes your One-Handed Bar Clamp better than the rest?
A. The Würth One-Handed Bar Clamp has a few unique features. The exclusive reverse gear mechanism permits one-handed control while loosening and retightening jaws. In addition, the reverse lever permits the jaws to be loosened in small increments - which is ideal if you need to re-adjust the work piece. Our clamps have full-depth cushioned pads providing protection against marring of the work surface and 25% greater clamping force. The clamp jaw can be quickly reversed for use as a spreader simply by unscrewing and repositioning it on the opposite end of the bar. Use it this way for installing. For example, if you are installing kitchen cabinets, the one jaw will be on the base cabinet and the other on the upper. Jack the cabinet into place and screw it to the wall.

Q. I am experiencing some problems with air pressure for my pneumatic tools. Do you have any suggestions?
A. For air-powered tools to work their best, the compressed air supply system must be properly installed and maintained regularly. A common mistake when installing an air supply system is when a branch line is brought down from a main line, it is dropped straight down. A properly installed branch line needs to go up, then 90 degrees, then drop it down. This will reduce the amount of water in your lines. An air supply system should be in a complete circle instead of a straight line. If an air supply system is just in a straight line, you will have good pressure by the compressor, but down towards the end, the pressure is greatly reduced. If your system is in a circle, you will have constant pressure in the entire system.

Q. What kind of guidelines do you recommend for temperature and water condensation when using pneumatic shop tools?
A. Tools operated in temperatures of 45 degrees Fahrenheit and below run the risk of ice formation because of the dew point being different than the ambient air which is due to pressurization. In other words, the surrounding temperature where the tool is being used does not have to be at 32 degrees Fahrenheit or below for ice to form. Special lubricants that contain antifreeze negate this problem.

Q. How does water get into the pneumatic tools and how can I get rid of it?
A. Typically, water enters directly through the air lines. It occurs because condensing water inside the compressor’s tank is allowed to build up to such an extent that the water travels through the air system into the tool. Avoid this problem by draining the compressor of air and moisture every night after work. The pet-cock is normally located at the lowest point of the tank bottom to facilitate drainage. Another helpful suggestion is the installation of a water filter that needs to be attached to the compressor’s air outlet. In order for the air lines to fuction properly, you should drain the filter regularly.

Q. How do I avoid air supply problems for pneumatic tools?
A. One problem is restricted air flow. Restrictions in the air line will cause a pressure drop to occur as a tool is being used in a fast operation. As the pressure drop occurs, drive power is reduced and the fasteners will be driven in a staircase appearance. That is, the first fastener will be driven all the way in - the next fastener will be a little higher, with the next fastener being even higher.

Make sure you have the proper air hose requirements. Air supply hoses should have a minimum working pressure rating of 150 psig (pressure per square inch – gauged) or 150 percent of the maximum pressure produced in the air supply system, whichever is higher. A good quality air hose with a minimum inside diameter of 5/16” should be used. Air hoses should always be kept as short as possible.

A filer, regulator, and lubricator should always be included in the air system for proper operation. A filter will prevent excessive tool wear and corrosion by trapping pipe scale, dirt, solidified lubricants, oil, moisture, and other components. Moisture removal prevents frozen airlines when operating at low temperatures.

The regulator is the most important requirement for proper tool operation and the correct air pressure for the job. If the tool is over pressured, tool wear is greatly increased. If the tool is under-pressured, it will not perform satisfactorily.

Heavy-duty lubricants applied at the factory and/or lubricating during a routine maintenance check cannot be expected to remain in the tool indefinitely. Consequently, a line lubricator that injects an oil mist into the tool’s air supply becomes essential.

Q. How can I diagnose if I have an air pressure problem with my pneumatic tools?
A. Air pressure must be maintained above 70 psig (pressure per square inch – gauged) for a tool to operate properly. Restricted air flow and the resultant pressure drop can be measured easily with an in-line pressure gauge. First measure the air pressure at the air compressor. Then watch if the air pressure drops. If this happens, there is a serious restriction problem somewhere in the air line system.

The restriction could be a plugged filter, incorrectly sized regulator, pipe scale, undersized pipe, airline hose, or snap-on fittings.

Locating the problem will require taking air pressure readings on both the inlet and outlet side of each component along the air pressure supply line. When you find a component with high air pressure on the inlet side and low pressure on the outlet side as the tool or tools are being used, you know you have found the restriction.

Q. What are the do’s and don’ts of lubrication?
A. The typical size of staplers, bradders, finish nailers, and pinners that are used in the cabinet industry can be lubricated with as few as 2-3 drops of #10 weight non detergent oil once or twice a day - if an “oiler” assembly is not already in use. Applying the drops of oil is done through the handle of the tool where the male coupler (air inlet) is located.

As a rule of thumb – it is advisable to perform an O-ring overhaul every six months for preventive maintenance.

While lubrication is vital, WRONG LUBRICATION does more harm to the tool than no lubrication. Examples of misguided lubricant choices are: Marvel Mystery Oil (has a Ben-Gay smell), transmission fluid (has a sweet smell), WD 40, and pneumatic tool oils that were intended for rotary vane, automotive, and air impact tools. These INCORRECT oils are often the wrong viscosity and/or are detergent based with additives which can swell, dry, and crack O-rings. Additionally, they may actually wash out the factory installed grease lubrication that is good for the tool.

A correctly lubricated tool can be identified with a very fine film of oil around the exhaust area. Inside the tool, the lubrication should be colorless.

For further information or questions you need
answered - please contact:

David Edwards,
Würth National Product Manager
Phone: 847-543-4856
Fax: 847-543-4857
E-mail: dwedwards@earthlink.net

Last revised: Date 9/28/06